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موسم العودة إلي الجنوب (3-3)

صورة حسن محمود قرني حسن محمود قرني20 أكتوبر، 2014

جلست تحت شجرة وارفة الظلال حينما تحرّكت الشمس إلي مغيبها بطريقة متأنية، وهي ترفع ذوئبتيها وترسم اللون القرمزي الشفّاف علي جبين السماء، وسرب من الطيور المهاجرة ترافق شفق المغيب وهي تعود إلي عشها وأوكارها المتدلية على الأغصان الكبيرة للأشجار الباسقات المحيطة على السهول النهرية، الأوراد الجماعية والأدعية العتيقة لمسجد حينا الموغل في الطريق القادرية الصوفية تتناهي إلي سمعي بين حين وأخرى محمّلة بعبق الأذكار ومسرات الأوراد، وشعورا  إيمانيا قويا، ونسمات وجدانية من الجمال تسري في داخلي.

الأذكار الجماعية للطيبين المتصوفة أذكى في نفسي جذوة الإيمان، وذبذبات الشوق إلي الذكر الحكيم حرك مكامن الحنين في نفسي فقرأت كتاب الله بقلب خاشع، كنت أرتّل القرآن وأتمعّن في حروفه، وأتدبّر في معانيه بحب وصفاء، ودخلت منطقة عالية تصفو فيها الذهن وترتفع فيها الشعور الديني، وتبعد الإنسان عن الدنيا وشهواتها، لازمت المصحف إلي أن أذّن المؤذّن، وبدأنا نفطر بعد يوم من الصيام يعتبر سهلا مقارنة برمضان الخرطوم الساخن، حيث كانت الحرارة تصل بعض المرات إلي 50 درجة مئوية، وكنا طلاب كرام ولكنهم مفاليس، ولا نملك الإمكانيات المادية التي تجعل صيف الخرطوم الساخن باردا.

العتمة السوداء، والهواء الطلق، وفناء البيت المفتوح إلي السماء، والنّجوم المرصّعة علي كبدها، والصفاء النادر فتح شهيتي الكتابية وحرك مداد قلمي. بدأت التدوين وصوت القلم السيّال يشحذ همتي، وصرير القلم يدغدغ مشاعري ويحرش غريزتي، وفي خضم السير وسط حدائق الكتابة المفتوحة إلي مرفأ الذاكرة تذوقت لذة الكتابة التي أشهى من الشهد، وهاجمني طيفها المنبعث من كل أرجاء البيت ومن مرسال الشوق وعن أصقاع الوجدان السحيقة.

القمر ينير الدروب بطريقة قمئية، ويرسل أشعته الباهتة بضني شديد في ليلة ماطرة من ليالي الصيف التي تجود السماء دموع المآقي بحاتمية عجيبة إلي الأرض، وقد تدثرت برداء الحياء من أجل الغيوم السوداء المتراكمة، والمزن التي تحمل أطنانا من المطر والحيا الذي ينعش التربة ويحي الأرض بعد موتها.

صلّيت العشاء حيث صليت الفجر خوفا من الغدر والإغتيالات المنتشرة في جنوب الصومال، إضافة إلي المطر المنهمر منذ الصباح، لم تدب السنة في جفوني وهاجرت الكرى عن عيوني والساعة تشير إلي ساعات الصباح الأولى بتوقيتنا المحلي، صخب الطبيعة وصوتها الهادر هو العنوان الأبرز والصوت الذي لا يعلو عليه صوت، حيث هدير الرعد وصوت البرق لم ينقطعا منذ المساء، والضباب البسيط يلتف حول الأرض وتحجب الرؤيا، وكأن كسمايو الناعسة علي جنوب خط الإستواء (علي بعد 30كم جنوب خط الإستواء) أصبحت مدينة رابضة علي الجزأ الشمالي للكون وفي القارات الباردة طول الموسم.

نسائم المطر الندية تهب من أعماق المحيطات، وعبق الأرض المبللة بالمطر تفوح من كل جهة، والصوت المترنم للأوراق والرائحة الزكية للأغصان التي تتمايل قربي وكأنها حفلة رقص رسمية، وعبق الزهور الفواحة التي تمنح أريجها الحيوية إلي الكون المتعب، والأعشاب المرتعشة علي وقع الرياح التي تهب عن الروابي المعشبة، والأشجار الكثيفة التي تحيط بيتنا، جعل المنطقة وكأنها مروج طبيعة وغابات إستوائية، حيث عذرية الطبيعة سلمت أيدي العابثين والمهوسين بالتصحر الذي غزا  علي مساحات كبيرة من الأراضي الخضراء في وطننا الحبيب.

ما أجمل العودة إلي الوطن!، وخاصة من يملك قلبا مجروحا بأصداء السنين، وجسما منهكا بطول الغربة ورمادية المدن، الحياة في الوطن وبأجواء رومانسية يزينها الرمضان وبعد سنوات الغربة والمنافي تعني أن تدب الحياة إلي أوصالك من جديد، وتعني أيضا ان ليالي الغربة الموحشة وساعات المهجر المخيف إنتحرت علي أعتاب البلد وفي وسط الأحبة والأصدقاء، الذين يجعلون للحياة معني آخر أجمل وأحسن من معانيها، حينما يكون الغريب فردا بلا عنوان ويدك الصقيع كل خيط وعصب من جسمه، أو يلسع الحر علي جسده، وهو متسربل ثوب الغربة ويستمع إلي أنينها وموسيقي الترحال علي وقع الشجن والحنين الجارف، الذي غالبا ما يداهمنا في آخر الليل وفي هدأت السحر حين القلوب تصفوا والأذهان ترنوا إلي تربتها، والجسد المتعب يريد أن يستريح ولو علي كرسي خشبي قرب محطة من محطات الوطن الموغلة في العراقة والقدم .

لا شئ يعادل جمال الطبيعة والعودة إلي مرفأ الذاكرة سوى الإرتماء إلي حضن الأم الدافئ، والنظر إلي بريق عيونها الموحي بالأمومة وحنانها، أوالسهر مع الحبيبة بعد سنوات من الهجر والضياع، والإصغاء معا إلي ترانيم الأغاني المترعة بالأحاسيس العتيقة والمشاعر الرومانسية الحالمة علي ضفاف نهر الوصال وأهداب العشق والهوى، وخصلات شعرها الفاحم تلامس صفحة وجهك وتدخلك إلي عمق الإثارة وقشعريرة الحب وتوهج الرومانسية .

بعد عقد من الترحال والتجول في أنحاء أفريقيا الجميلة، وشهورا عشت بين أحراشها الموحشة وغاباتها الكثيفة، وبين سحر طبيعتها الخلابة ودفء إنسانها البرئ، عدت إلي كسمايو التي تبدو وكأنها تحن إلي ماضيها العريق وأيامها الخوالي وتغالب الشوق والشوق أغلب، كما تبدو المدينة وفيّة لتاريخها وتراثها الغابر وتاريخها المرصع بكل ألوان الجمال والبهاء، حيث معالمها الرئيسة بادية للعيان رغم الإهمال والهدم الذي طال مرافقا حيوية كان بالأمس القريب آثارا تباهي بها المدينة.

السواحل النظيفة والشواطئ اللؤلؤية التي لم تجد من يعتنيها ويحافظ جمالها ورمالها الحريرية تتصارع مع العابثين وأعداء الجمال، الذين يريدون أن يحولو سحر الشواطئ إلي قمامات ومزابل نتنه لا تفوح عنها سوى الروائح الكريهة، والنفايات العفنة، والبقايات الكريهة لكل شئ في عالم القبح والقتامة!.

الأحياء القديمة المحاذية للبحر والتي كانت النواة الأولي لكسمايو شاهدة عن المصائب والحروب العبثية التي شهدتها المدينة أكثر من نصف قرن، والبيوت العتيقة والبنايات التاريخية صامدة رغم الصدأ والرطوبة وأصداء السنين وتقلبات الواقع، وتحولت  المباني التأريخية إلي تماثيل حزينة،  وبالمناسبة لا يوجد مدينة صومالية أشقى من كسمايو التي كانت تتعرض للنهب والهدم والحروب التي لا تترك شئيا في كل خمس سنوات تقريبا، وكأن حظها الدمار والدماء والدموع والتشريد والمجاعات!، في حين كان المدن الأخرى تتقدم وتتطور وتواكب العصر والعولمة والعمران الذي يجمل وجه المدن.

المستشفى المركزي للمدينة الذي كان يوما من الأيام يعد من أفضل المشافي الصومالية يحاول اليوم التغلب علي المشكلات العويصة وقلة الدواء والكوادر البشرية، ومازال المرضى يؤمون إليه وهم ينشدون الدواء والتطبيب، وبالمناسبة هو أول وآخر مستشفى رقدت فوق سريره سنة ثمانية وتسعين الميلادية حينما أصابتني الملاريا وتركتني حرارة الحمي وتوهجها هذيانا صاخبا لم أعرف كلماته ولم أفهم معانيه إلي يومنا هذا.

لم أكن أعي ما يدور حولي من وقع المرض ووطأة الملاريا الموجعة، ولا أتذكر عن هذه التجرية سوى الشيخ العجوز الذي يرقد إلي جانبي الذي كان يأكل ويلتهم كل طعام المرضي رغم أنه يقال هو مصاب بداء لا أعرفه، ورائحة الكلورين التي كانت تغسل في صحن دورات المياه، وكنت أتقيأ إذا استنشقت رائحتها الكريهة وإلي يومنا هذا أجد صعوبة كبيرة في التأقلم مع هذه البودرة رغم تقادم العمر وتراكم التجارب.

ولا أنسي الممرضات الأنيقات في نظري والمديرة العامة البلجيكية، هذ الشقراء الفرعاء كانت تتجول في الغرف تفقد المرضي في كل صباح، وبسبب فضوليتي وسذاجتي الطفولية، كنت أتعجب لصلعتها ولباسها الذي يجسد أعضاء جسمها ومفاصلها بطريقة لم أتعهدها من قبل، ويوما وأنا أتامل بريق صلعتها الغريبة قال لي طبيب من أقاربي تزوج الطبيب البلجيكية لاحقا، أن الطبيبة أصابها داء وبفعله تساقط شعرها الأشقر! كانت هذه الإجابة غريبة بالنسبة لي في ذالك الزمن!.

المدارس المتنوعة والمعاهد المتعددة مثل جوبا الذي أتشرف أن أكون في ضمن أول دفعة تخرج منها بعد إنهيار الدولة المركزية الصومالية، وفانولي أقدم مدرسة أعيد فتحها بعد سقوط النظام العسكري، ومدرسة أحمد بن حنبل المبنية قرب الشاطئ، ومدرسة فرجنة، مازالت تخرج الأفواج تلو الأفواج وهم مزودون بالعلوم الشرعية والمادية، وإن كان البعض يعتبر أن التعليم في كسمايو مازالت تترنح وتحاول النهوض من جديد بعد نكسة عام التسعين الميلادية، والتعليم في الصومال عامة في حالة الطوارئ، حيث المدارس لا تجد الدعم المادي ولا المعنوي، ولا تعرف أبسط متطلبات المدارس من المناهج الوطنية التي تمنح علي الطلاب معرفة وحبا لوطنهم، وموادا تراعي القيم والتأريخ والتراث، والكراسي والاثاث المدرسية، والطاقم الدراسي المدرب، وحتي الأزياء المدرسية المنظمة.

ومن لهو القول أن نذكر وجودا للأدوات المعملية حيث نجد في الصومال من تخرج عن المدارس الثانوية وفي جعبته شهادة ثانوية ونال الإمتياز في الإختبار بجميع المواد بما فيها العملي أو المواد العلمية مثل الرياضيات والفيزياء والأحياء والكيمياء دون أن يرى يوما في حياته اللاب أو المعمل،! بل جل ما درس هو النظري فقط ! وهذا يعتبر شئ غريب جدا في عالمنا اليوم الذي تخطى حيز النظريات والكلام المحشوّ بالتفاهات إلي التدريب والتجريب والإتقان وتقريب العلوم للأفهام عبر الدلائل العلمية والتجارب المعملية.

تجولت أنحاء المدينة في مساء يوم غائم صيفي، وخرجت من المدينة إلي ناحية الشمال واقتربت جدا إلي المبني الأنيق والفخم لجامعة كسمايو الذي ينتصب شامخا في وسط هدير الطبيعة وصخبها، وفوق ربوة قليلة الإرتفاع تشرف علي المدينة كما تطل علي المحيط الهندي وزرقة المياه الصافية، كل شئ كان يوحي بثروة الوطن وجمال المدينة.

إبل يرتع أغصان الأشجار في قرب مرابعه، وعربات تنقل البضائع للقرى والمدن المتناثرة علي أحضان نهر جوبا، ولواري عملاقة قادمة من بعيد تحمل أنواع الفواكهة والخضروات، وقرويين بسطاء يصطفون علي جنبات الشارع، الجامعة تحولت إلي ثكنة عصرية في مظهر تراجيدي مؤلم، وهي اليوم تعد أهم منطقة عسكرية في الإقليم بعد الميناء والمطار الذي يتمركزهما قوات حفظ السلام التابعة للإتحاد الأفريقي.

مسحت أنحاء المدينة من آرجو Aargo إلي صومالي إستار Somali Star ومن قيلمواييQilmawaye  إلي بولو أبلكو Buulo Abliko فلم أر إلا وجوها سمراء قانعة وعيونا زائغة تراقب غروب الشمس وشروقها، وأماني أرهقتهم البطالة وأتعبتهم الحروب، وترجوا لطف القدر بهم، وأن يحقق لهم آمالهم المشفوعة بالأماني التي تأخرت كثيرا.

كسمايو أصبحت مدينة المتناقضات العجيبة، في النهار هي مدينة عصرية جميلة تعج بالسكان العائدين من الغربة والمنافي، وحركات تجارية كبيرة، وزحمة في الطرقات والشوارع جنبا إلي جنب مع البناء والعمران الذي غزا المدينة مما يجعل المدينة جديدة عليك.

وفي الليل تتحول إلي مدينة أشباح!، الخوف يغزو علي مساحات الجمال، وساحات الامل تتحول إلي ميادين للأسى، سكون غريب وسكوت مروع بعد صلاة المغرب، الطرقات خالية من المارة والسكان، والشوارع الرئيسة لاصوت فيها سوى صرير الرياح ونباح الكلاب وصوت البندقية والطلقات العشوائية التي تجعل سماء المدينة في رابعة النهار بعض المرات.

عموما تبدو المدينة وكأنها عائدة إلي سكة التطور والنسيان التام إلي الماضي التراجيدي، فالناس تنفسوا الصعداء من أجل إنتهاء الكابوس المخيف للحركات التي كانت تكمم الأفواه وتصدر الحريات وتقتل الكرامة البشرية، ولكن يعاني الشعب هنا مكشلة من نوع خاص، الكل خائف ومتوجس ومتوتر، والحروب الدائرة والصراعات التي لا تعرف التهدئة والمشاكل التي لا تنتهي ولا تخمد أوارها تركت في قلوب الناس ترسبات عجيبة وآثار  غريبة لا تمحوها النسيان.

وأخيرا معظم سكان كسمايو يرون الإدارة المحلية أنها قامت لصالحهم وتمثلهم، ويريدون أن تتطور الإدارة الجديدة من جميع النواحي وتنتصر في حروبها وصراعاتها مع الجبهات والحركات المختلفة، والحروب التي تشنها الإدارة الجديدة للحركات المتمردة والجبهات التي لا تحب للصومال أن تكون دولة قوية ومحترمة يري الشعب أنها حروب من أجل البقاء ومواصلة الحياة رغم الخوف والجوع والمرض.

 

صورة حسن محمود قرني حسن محمود قرني20 أكتوبر، 2014
صورة حسن محمود قرني

حسن محمود قرني

حسن محمود قُرنَي كاتب ومدون صومالي خريج جامعة أفريقيا العالمية كلية العلوم قسم جيولوجيا.

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