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تطوان للمغرب صَوْلَجَان

مِنَ العِزِّ لها الأعَز ، تاج على رأسها رصيناً لا يهتزّ ، مِنْ ذَهَبٍ أخلاقه مَنْ تمسَّكَ بها فاز ، جواهره صنائع مَنْ اعتمدها من كلِّ عَسيرٍ جَاز ، ولؤلؤه غنائم بالفطنة و الحلال مَلَكَها سلِسَة الانْحِياز. “تاؤها” ترنيمة عاشقة بإحسان لأحسنٍ  لا يحتاج صدق نيتها إجْهار ولا إِبراز، و”طاؤها” طول صبرٍ على المِحن مهما كانت قاسية الطِّراز ،   و “واؤها” وادي “لْمْحَنِّشُْ يجود في كَرمٍ بسيلانه على البحر الأبيض المتوسط في فخر واعتزاز ، و “أَلِفُها” ألفَة نحلة لامتصاص رحيق الورود لانتاج حلو متجدِّد شفاء لصرف مبَذِّرٍ دون اكتناز ،  و”نُونُها” نهضة مِنْ ورائها تضحية مشيِّدين “غرناطة” مغربية أجمل مِن شقيقتها الأيبيرية إذ القياس بالمضمون وليس الكم فمُحِِبِّ الرمان نفسه ميال بوفاء وإخلاص لِلْكَرَز .

تطوان حُلم المبتدئين من الناس الطّيبين ، وعودة لختام رحلة عاشوها بين أقطار المعمور منعَّمين ، لا ينقصهم سوى شَمّ رائحة الأصل والمرور وسط دروب التي إليها ينتسبون ، فلا موسكو ولا باريس ولا لندن ولا مكسيكو ولا روما ولا برلين ولا تل أبيب ولا واشنطن ، غيرت إقاماتهم فيها قيد أنملة من عقليتهم التطوانية الراسخة بين دُورٍ كانوا مِنْ حولها يلعبون ، وعلى وِدِّ سكانها يترعرعون ، جنباً لجنبٍ بدياناتهم الثلاث يتعبَّدون ، مغاربة كلهم حقهم العيش باستقرار وسلام وواجبهم أينما حلت بهم الأقدار أن يظلوا بما ألِفوه متمسّكين ، الهوية كما هي .. صلة الرَّحِمِ .. التضامن بروح لا تقبل الانفصام عن أسرهم الوطنيين.

الحقيقة طالما تكون غريبة عمَّن لَحِقَه نِبراسها مضيئاً قتامة ما عاشه ردحاً ليس بالقصير ، مُساقاً وراء مكاسب مادية تنأى به عن الفاقة ، أو تقربه من نِعَمِ الدنيا الأكثر استلاباً لواقع ظرفي دون آخر يصعب التخلص منه بيسر ،  لا يقبل به لظروف تخرجه في صَمْتٍ عن روعه ، ليعاني من ندم عن مرور ما يعادل نصف حياته ، لم تزداد خلاله غير مسؤوليات تحمَّلَ نتائجها ، المصاحبة جلّها المستفيدين منها على حسابه .

في فجر مشهود من حياتي أقسمتُ أن أقطع المسافة الرابطة بين تطوان وسبتة مشياً دون توقّّف ، فكانت مناسبة لتلتقط ذاكرتي طبوغرافية تلك الطريق خطوة خطوة ، ربما لعبت الصدفة بتنفيذ قراري ذاك في 22 أكتوبر ، نفس اليوم العائد بذكرى سنة 1859 ميلادية حيت أعلنت اسبانيا الحرب على المغرب انطلاقا من تطوان لتنتهي بمعاهدة “وَادْ رَاسْ” المؤرخة بيوم 26 أبريل سنة 1860 ميلادية ، والمغرب منهزم فيها لأسباب جفّ حبر أقلام حرّكها أصحابها بين الضفتين المتقابلتين للأبيض المتوسط ، مكرِّرة نفس أحداث جرت ، أبطالها مغاربة وأسبان جمعهم التنافس على احتضان تطوان ، مكبلة بسلاسل الاحتلال الاسباني تارة ، ومتمتعة بحرية دائمة كما كافح المغرب بكل طاقاته لتصبح كذلك . بعد الوصول لميناء سبتة وركوب الباخرة المتوجهة لمدينة “الخُزيرات”الاسبانية التقيتُ بأسرة يهودية تطوانية سكنت حي “الملاح” متوجهة صوب إسرائيل ، أخذة خطاً تمويهياً يُبعدها عن رقباء لم أنتبه للسّبب إلا بعد سنوات على إقامتي في بروكسيل والتقي بها مجدداً عن طريق “أدارا” كبرى بنات تلك الأسرة ، التي دعتني لزيارة منزلها الكائن بأرقى شوارع بروكسيل ، وكم كنت سعيداً بالتعرُّف على أناس رحلوا وفي قلوبهم جزء من تطوان ، يفخرون بالفترة الزمنية التي استقروا بين أحضانها لن تتكرر لأهميتها مهما عمّروا ، ولولا انتقالي للمملكة الهولندية متمِّماً رحلتي نحو شمال أوربا لما قاطعت زيارتهم لاحترامي من يحترم تطوان بما لها وما عليها .          

… كما الصّراخ الصاعق يأتي منفّرا من شدة الهلع ، السكينة مِنَ الحبّ الصادق تأتي مبشِّرة بكل أمر مُطاع . تلك وما شابهها من حِكَمِ تجربةٍ مُجرَّد جزءٍ بسيط من مَطْلَع، يُلخِّص انطلاق فوج باحث عن رزقٍ حلال ينقله لمرحلة الاعتماد على النفس بلا ضجيج خلفه يتمنَّع. فإن انتقلنا للحاضر متتبّعين اهتمامنا لمضمون ما يقع ، استدرجنا الحديث الصريح لمخاطبة المسؤولة الأولى بما لكلينا ينفع :

… الوباء لم يترك لغير الدولة المجال للتدخّل كي يجد الشباب ما يعوّضهم عن الحرمان ، ولها الكثير إن ركَّزت بعض الاهتمام لجوهرة مُدنِها تطوان ، بعد النقص المهول في مستوى ما كانت الأوْلَي باستكمال (على محيط ترابها الإداري)  مجالاته الاقتصادية زمن إعادة هيكلتها ، حتى لا تبدو كما هي الآن ، جميلة لم يكتمل جمالها بتخطيط يضعها في نفس الخطِّّ التنموي ، مع شقيقاتها مدن الرباط وفأس والدار البيضاء و مراكش وطنجة لتبتعد عن مصير مدينتي القصر الكبير ووزان . طبعاً السلطات الأمنية في سبتة وجدَتها فرصة للتّشهير بما تعانيه تطوان من ضائقة اقتصادية خانقة لا تُقارن ، حينما ألقت القبض على عشرة شبان بوصولهم سباحة لشاطئ مدينة سبته متحَدِّين الطقس البارد و”كرونا” المنتشرة في كل مكان ، المهم عندهم الحصول عمَّا يغنيهم عن البطالة والتشرد والضياع وقلة الأمان .

…كانت النظرة متجهة لجعلها مدينة سياحية متطورة ولو ببطء في الميدان ، لكن المراد الرسمي باء بالفشل  حينما تركها (وما وُجِّهت له) معتمدة على تدبير محلي أغلبه سياسي هشّ السِّمات ، غير مهيأ لتحمّل مثل المسؤولية لانعدام القدرة على مواجهة صارمة تفرض اتخاذ قرارات تتمشى ورغبة ساكنة المدينة  الغارقة في مشاكل مكدّسة عبر مراحل ذاقت من خلالها مرارة العجز، أكان اقتصادياً أو ذاك المتفرّع عن سلبيات أغلقت جل أبواب انتعاش التطوّر المنشود من عِقد زمني على الأقل .(يتبع)

مصطفى منيغ

سفير السلا م العالمي

‫88 تعليقات

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