عبد الفتاح نور أحمد – صحافي ومدّون صومالي
الزيارة الأخيرة التي قمتُ بها إلى سلطنة عُمان جاءت في وقت تشهد السلطنة فعاليات مهرجان صلالة السياحي تحت شعار ” عمان أرض المحبة والسلام”وجدتُ عُمان بلد يعمه السلام، ليس على صعيد الأمن فقط؛ وإنما يعيش أهله في سلام ووئام اجتماعي، وعنوان مقالي مقتبس من شعار هذا المهرجان.
كنتُ أحلم سابقاً زيارة سلطنة عُمان والتعرف عن قرب ثقافة أهلها، وتاريخهم وعاداتهم التي هي عادات قريبة جداً لعاداتنا نحن الصوماليين في كثير من النواحي، وبما أنني صحفي أحب زيارة البلدان والأمصار،والتجول فيها، وكتابة انطباعاتي عنها، واقتناء الكتب، وجمع الطوابع النقدية، فقد زرتُ قبل السلطنة الكثير من البلدان ،ولي فيها حكايات سأكتبها تباعاً في مدوناتي القادمة.
لكن زيارتي الأخيرة إلى عُمان تختلف كثيراً عن تلك البلدان التي زرتها،فحُبّها منقوش على ذاكرتي منذ الصغر،أتذكر – وأنا في مقتبل العمر – الحلوى العمانية ومذاقها اللذيد،وكان التجار يجلبونها من السلطنة ويوزعونها على الأطفال كنوع من الهدايا الثمينة.
تلك الحلوى اللذيذة والجلابية العُمانية ذات التطريز المميز،وأحاديث التُجار الصوماليين العائدين من تلك الديار وحكاياتهم عن السلطنة ومحافظة الظفار بصورة خاصة باتت كلها عوامل لها وقعها الخاص في نفسي.
الوصول إلى مسقط
وصلتُ مطار مسقط الدولي في وقت متأخر من المساء، كان برفقتي تاجر صومالي تعرفنا في أديس أبابا (عاصمة أثيوبيا) ونحن في طريقنا إلى مسقط، فالخطوط الجوية الأثيوبية لها رحلات يومية من وإلى الصومال، وتنقل الركاب من الصومال، منطلقين إلى وجهاتهم نحو العالم، وتوفر الخطوط الجوية الإيثوبية فرصىة السكن في أحد فنادق العاصمة على حساب الطيران،لمن عليهم الانتظار الطويل، حتى وصول توقيت رحلاتهم الخارجية.
سكنتُ الفندق مع ركاب من دول شرق أفريقيا تختلف وجهاتهم نحو العالم،انتهزتُ الإقامة القصيرة في أديس أبابا واستأجرتُ سيارة أجرة اتفقنا مع سائقها مستخدمين مفردات من لغة حبشية بسيطة، هي حصيلة ذخيرة لغوية لسنوات عشتها في إيثوبيا سابقاً، وقام السائق بجولة سريعة داخل العاصمة،وعلى المعالم والبنايات المشهورة منها: مقر الاتحاد الأفريقي، وفندق هيلتون، ومستشفى ” طقر امباسي” إي الأسد الأسود باللغة الأمهرية.
بعد الانتهاء من جولتنا داخل أديس أبابا – ومعناها باللغة الحبشية الزهرة الجديدة- حان موعد انطلاقتنا نحو سلطنة عُمان،ركبنا الطائرة الإيثوبية،وانطلقت بنا تمخر في عباب السماء، وبعد ساعات وصلنا مطار مسقط الدولي.
كان المطار هادئاً، شباب وشابات عمانيات يعملن من أجل تسهيل مهمة الزائر والمقيم في السلطنة، دقائق فقط، وبعدها وجدتُ نفسي خارج المطار، اللافتات المعلقة على جدران مطار مسقط الدولي كلها مكتوب عليها عبارات الترحيب، مع صور جلالة سلطان قابوس بن سعيد، وإعلانات لشركات وبنوك عمانية، القيت – – كعادتي- نظرة سريعة على اللافتات، وقرأتها بتمعّن، وجدتُ أن كل عبارة عربية تحتها ترجمة إنجليزية، عكس السودان التي عشتها فترة من عمري تتجاوز سبع سنوات، فاللافتات كلها مكتوبة بالعربي، أما هنا في الخليج، فالوضع يختلف؛لأن هناك عمالة وافدة لا تجيد سوى الإنجليزية.
دقائق معدودة كانت المسافة بين المطار ومكان نزلي في حي ” روي” بمسقط، غالبني النوم ، فلستٌ من النوع الذي ينام على مقاعد الطيران، نمتُ ساعات طوال ، وبعد الاستيقاظ، تمشيتُ قرب مكان نزلي بحي ” روي” معظم المقاهي التي فيها هندية وبنغالية، والعاملين فيها لا يجيدون العربية،وليس فيهم رغبة في التعلم،تعاملتُ معهم عند زيارتي السابقة إلى الكويت، يستخدمون عبارات ممزوجة ما بين إنجليزي وعربي ولهجتهم المحلية، يقولون لك مثلاً : ” امش سيدا” أي امش إلى الأمام، وعبارة ” مني” ويقصدونها ( هنا) وعبارة ” معلوم” وغيرها من العبارات، والأعجب فيهم يستخدمون ضمير المتكلم كالغائب.
في اليوم التالي زرتُ السفير عبد الرزاق فارح علي في مقر السفارة بحي شاطىء القُرم،معظم الصوماليين الموجوديين داخل السلطنة مقيمين في صلالة يمارسون مهنة التجارة ، أما في العاصمة لم يتبق فيها؛ سوى عدد قليل يعمل معظمهم في الدوائر الحكومية.
القراءة هي هوايتي المفضلة، وفي كل بلدٍ أزوره أبحث عن كتب تشفي غليلي المعرفي، بحثتُ عن مكتبة لبيع الكتب،وبعد طول بحث وجدتُ مكتبة مسقط في حي الوطية، تجولت داخل المكتبة، والقيت نظرة سريعة وخاطفة على الكتب.
تحوي المكتبة مؤلفات تاريخية عن السلطنة، وأخرى عن المذهب الإباضي، وهو مذهب أهل عُمان، وفجأةً وقع نظري على كتاب في أعلى أرفف المكتبة بعنوان ” صراع الحب والسلطة.. السلطانة جُومبيه فاطمة والتنافس العُماني الفرنسي على جزيرة موهيلي القمرية (1841-1878) ” دون تردد اقتنيت الكتاب ودفعتُ مبلغ 4 ريالات عماني، أي ما يعادل 15 دولاراً أمريكيا.
بدأت تصفُّح الكتاب، وقرأت مقدمة الكتاب الضافية بقلم الدكتور محمد المحروقي ( المحاضر بجامعة سلطان قابوس سابقاً ومدير مركز خليل بن أحمد الفراهيدي حالياً) بحثتُ عنوان الدكتور محمد المحروقي؛ لكي اتحدث معه في موضوع يخص الحُضور العُماني في منطقة القرن الأفريقي (الصومال وجيبوتي على وجه الخصوص) بعد دقائق وجدتُ الرد من الدكتور عبر بريدي الإلكتروني، ودعاني لمأذبة غذاء في بيته الواقع في العذيبة بمسقط.
تناولتُ وجبة الغذاء معه في اليوم التالي، متجاذباً معه أطراف الحديث،وبما أنه أديب ولغوي ومؤرخ درس الدكتوراه في بريطانيا،دار حديثنا حول تلك المحاور؛خاصة فيما يخص الحُضور العُماني في الصومال، وتشابه العادات والتقاليد والأكلات.
المحروقي رجل خلوق وفاضل،أوصلني بسيارته إلى الفندق، وانتظرني خارج الفندق، وقال لي أوصلك إلى المطار ، وكنت ذاهب يومها إلى صلالة الخضراء،لتلبية لدعوة رئيس الجالية الصومالية هناك برخد محمد محمود.
سألتُ الدكتور المحروقي إن كانت هناك صلة قرابة بينه وبين رئيس تحرير جريدة ” عمان” لأنه يحمل نفس اسم عائلته، فقال لي أعرفه بحكم منصبه،فأخبرته بأنني زرته في مكتبه، واستقبلني برحابة صدر.
وكذلك طلبت من المحروقي المساعدة في الحصول على عنوان هيئة الإذاعة وتلفزيون سلطنة عمان، فأعطاني مشكورا رقم تليفون الأديب والإذاعي المشهور سالم المعمري، زرته في مكتبه بمقر الإذاعة.
و المعمري أديب ولغوي وصاحب روايات نال جوائز عربية في إحدى رواياته، أراد أن يجري معي مقابلة إذاعية موسعة حول التاريخ والأدب المشترك، لم أوفق في المقابلة الإذاعية، وعلى وعد أن نرتب الموضوع في المرة القادمة.
أثناء إقامتي القصيرة في عمان توثقت علاقاتي مع المحروقي،اصطحبني معه إلى جامعة ” نزوى” التي يعمل فيها محاضراً،لكن لضيق الوقت لم أزر ” بيت الزبير” التراثي،ولم أتجول داخل نزوى عاصمة الثقافة الإسلامية، فهي مدينة قديمة ولها تاريخ عريق، ومشهورة بنظام الأفلاج وغيرها من موروث الشعب العُماني.
كان من المُقرر زيارة المعالم التاريخية لـ” نزوى” لكن تدشين كتاب ” فاطمة البروانية” والذي نظّمه “مركز خليل بن أحمد الفراهيدي” هو الذي أجّل الزيارة، واكتفيتُ – فقط- بجولة داخل الحرم الجامعي.
أثناء إقامتي في مسقط زرتُ جامعة سلطان قابوس، وهي جامعة عريقة في بنيانها لم ار مثيلاً لها من قبل، فقد زرتُ جامعة ” ماكريري” بأوغندا، وتعتبر من أكبر الجامعات الأفريقية عراقةً ومساحةً، ومع ذلك لا يمكن مقارنتها بجامعة سلطان قابوس من حيث المساحة.
جامعة سلطان قابوس فيها مراكز بحثية متخصصة،ومساحة الجامعة واسعة لدرجة أنني استأجرتُ سيارة أجرة للتجول داخلها، اجتهد جلالة السلطان قابوس بن سعيد أن تكون الجامعة حاضنةً تربوية للعمانيين وللأجانب على حد سواء،وهي دليل واضح على رؤيته الثاقبة.
صلالة الخضراء
تبعُد صلالة عن عاصمة السلطنة ألف كيلو تقريباً،وهي مدينة تكتسي بالخضرة في موسم الخريف، وتمتاز بالتنوعها العرقي،وفيها جالية صومالية أخذ بعضهم الجنسية العُمانية، وهناك قبائل مشتركة بين سلطنة عمان والصومال، منهم قبائل: المهرة، وقبيلة الدارود،وعوائل الفاضل والكثيري.
وصلالة مدينة تجارية فيها مصانع للدقيق والمشروبات والإسمنت، وتُشحن البضائع إلى موانئ الصومال، وتستورد عمان الثروة الحيوانية الصومالية؛ خاصةً الأغنام والأبقار.
في الليلة الأولى التي وصلت فيها صلالة، سكنتُ أحد فنادقها داخل سوق مكتظ بالسكان والمارة، بتُ ليلتي في فندق صغير داخل هذا السوق، تحدثتُ مع عمانيين عرفوا ملامحي لأول وهلة بأنني صومالي، عكس سكان مسقط؛ الذين كانوا يقولون لي هل أنت من السودان؟ الجوار الجغرافي بين بوصاصو وصلالة يعلب دوراً في توثيق عرى المحبة بين الصوماليين وسكان محافظة ظفار، حقاً صلالة مدينة صومالية في عمق سلطنة عمان.
في صباح اليوم التالي، زارني في الفندق رئيس الجالية الصومالية؛ الذي نقلني إلى فندق آخر قريب لمكان عمله، أكثر تجهيزاً من الفندق الأول،وأخذني بجولة داخل صلالة، تناولتُ معه الغذاء في مطعم خارج المدينة، وبعدها زرنا ضريح النبي أيوب،والتقطت صور جميلة مع المناظر الخضراء التي اكتستها صلاله في موسم الخريف.
صلالة مدينة جميلة وهادئة، وفيها معالم تاريخية وأضرحة للأنبياء كضريحي النبي أيوب ونبي الله عمران، وفيها مكان لأثر ناقة بني الله صالح، إنها مدينة تجمع في طيّاتها التاريخ والجمال الطبيعي، وفيها جامع السلطان قابوس – وكما قيل لي- هذا الجامع مشيد في جميع مدن السلطنة، وهو مسجد مشيّد بطريقة معمارية مميزة.
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